Aileron Bellcranks

While waiting for parts and materials to continue work on the right leading edge wing I started working on the aileron bellcrank pieces.   For my first attempt I traced the shape of the bellcrank parts onto .030 6061-T6 and cut the shape out with aviation snips.  Well, the result was not good.  The pieces I cut were "warped" during the cutting process.  So I chucked them in the trash can.  For my next attempt I traced the part from the plans to tracing paper then used a glue stick to adhere the tracing paper to poster board then cut it out from the poster board to use it as a template.  Instead of cutting out the piece with tin snips I decided to use my bench band saw to cut the shape and then finish off shaping by hand file and 3M green pad.  The resulting pieces were much nicer.

In this photo you can see the plans, the template I made, and the cut out and shaped pieces.  Much better.  I have to finish the other two pieces and then cut out the piece of 2024-T4 1" x 1/4" bar stock then drill.  I am much happier with the results I get with the band saw for cutting out the pieces.

Tomorrow I will be installing the new MIL-SPEC 18 gauge wire I got for my lights in the leading edge and then drill the bottom leading edge skin.  And the lights I ordered (see previous post) arrived.  It will be a while before I install those.  Have to finish the wing and make the fiber glass wing tips first..

Thanks for checking in  -

Greg.

Skinning Bottom of Leading Edge (Right Wing)

Started the skinning on the bottom of the leading edge for the right wing.  First rivets on rib #1 drilled and cleco'd.

I will be replacing the wire for the lights.  I originally used automotive wire for the lights.  However after doing some research I have discovered that while okay to use automotive wire the recommended material is MIL-SPEC shielded or un-shielded wire for use in aircraft.  Shielded wire is used for ignition, strobes, and any other "noise producing" electrical connections.  Un-shielded is okay for non-strobe lights so that's what I'm going to use for the wing navigation lights.  I found nice plain old navigation lights online for a decent price.  About $70 per side for normal incandescent lights.  These are the lights I ordered.

Regular old incandescent lights for my CX4

I also ordered 100' of 18 gauge un-shielded MIL-SPEC wire to hook them up.  I will be taking out the automotive wires shown in the photo above and replacing with the MIL-SPEC stuff then complete the riveting of the skin to the leading edge.  Then I'll start attaching the main ribs and getting ready to skin the rest of the wing.  

While waiting for my wire I have been fabricating the aileron bell crank parts.  I'll put some pics up of that work later.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Back to it

Finished drilling, de-burring and riveting the top skin to the leading edge.  Here are a couple of pics of the work.  I peeled back the plastic film coating the skin stock to de-burr and rivet.  Ugly but it protects the skin from work bench scratches.

And yes, my hands are a bit sore from hand squeezing the rivets.  I will continue with the manual rivet tool.  I believe there is more control over pulling rivets with a hand squeezer.  The pneumatic squeezers seem to be harder to use.  I think my hand riveting gives me more control when setting and pulling the rivets.  

Next I will flip over the leading edge and drill, de-burr and rivet the bottom.  I will run electrical wiring for lights and add a "pull-string" for any other things that I might want to run through the wing.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Slowly -

It's been a few weeks.  Busy and not able to get into a work session without interruption.  I want to spend a couple of hours finishing the leading edge skinning and getting the remaining wing structure together.  I had to order some more .020 6061-T6 aluminum.  Should be here in a week or so.   Also spent some time cleaning up the work shop.  It is getting a bit cluttered.  Only myself to blame.

Will be getting back to it tomorrow and I will report progress.

Thanks for checking in.

Greg.

Attaching Leading Edge Skin

Started drilling and setting the leading edge to the ribs/spar.  Here are some pictures of the progress.

I start my measuring and drilling the hole nearest to the spar (first pic) then measure out the remaining eight holes using a rivet spacing tool and square to draw a line and mark the locations.  Seems to be working out okay.  Measure twice - drill once is the mantra.

About two hours work for the first two ribs.  Of course I have been taking my time and the remaining ones should go a bit quicker.  Now that I have the mark, measure, drill, process figured out.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Should I Re-do My Leading Edge Bend???

A bit of a pickle here.  I noticed my leading edge skin has a little "buckling" in the bend on the bottom side.  I don't think this is a problem.  It is a bit ugly.  How does this impact the aerodynamics?  I'm not sure.  I will get some input from the CX4 Builders Group to see what they think.  I guess for aesthetics it should be trashed and redone.  But then I've wasted a big chunk of costly .020 6061-T6 aluminum.

Anyone out there have any ideas or recommendations?

Does this call for a new bend?  I tried to push the dimple out but it didn't work.  

Going to delay drilling and riveting the skin until I can check with the designer and other builders to see if this is a problem or not.

Darn!

Greg.

Update - 9/10/13 - I asked Dave Thatcher (CX4 Designer) and he said "no problem - Just hit it with some bondo and it will be fine"  I may just do that.  Thanks Dave.

Marking Skin for Rivets - Measure Twice, Drill Once (or maybe measure more?)

Marking the rivet holes for the inboard leading edge rib.  Measuring per plans for 1.5" spacing I can only get eight (08) holes on a rib.  Hmmmm.  All the pictures I have seen and the plans show nine holes...

Here is my initial marking for the rivet positions at 1.5" spacing

Setting the 1.5" spacing with the rivet placement tool

That's marked on the center of the rib flange from just within the trailing edge to the leading edge end of the rib.  With the 1.5" spacing I can only get eight holes.  Is that enough?  On the plans the rivet locations indicate nine locations:

Plan clearly shows nine rivets on the top flange and eight on the bottom

I checked the plan and the first rivet location (at the spar) is just inside the trailing edge of the rib.  The second rivet location measures about 3/4" from the first.  Then they are evenly spaced at 1.5".  Even allowing for the 3/4" space between the first two holes I can only get eight.  I think the best thing I can do to meet the nine rivet requirement is to adjust the space between the rivets.  Maybe making the space 1.25" instead of 1.5" will work?  I'll try that and get back to you...

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Leading Edge Bending and Attachment

August 31 - Saturday

Spent a couple of hours preparing and then bending the left wing leading edge.  Used an 8' 2x4 to do the bend just like the instructions said.  Thought I was going to need help doing it.  I was able to do the bend and it was pretty easy.  I just used the 2x4 to press down on the sheet I cut to make the bend.  I then clamped and strapped the leading edge skin to the spar/rib structure.

 Pressing the skin onto the ribs after making the bend.  I first just pressed down on the sheet without the rib/spar structure to the initial fold/bend.  Then I placed the rib/spar structure into the skin and squared it.

 Here I clamped the skin to the leading edge.

Now I have to line up and mark the skin for initial drilling.  Then match up the ribs to the holes and cleco in place.  Will try to get that started tomorrow.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Progress on the Wing

Progress is being made - slow but steady at this point.  I had to clear off the work table and unroll a 12' x 4' sheet of .020 6061-T6 to mark and cut the leading edge skin for the right wing.

Made the first cut.  28" from edge and the second cut 90" long in the sheet.  You can see it marked out in these pictures.  I used hand shears to do the cut.  They worked okay.  Have to take your time to keep a straight cut.  When cutting the .040 sheet for the wing spar webs I used a hand-held electric jig saw.  But with this thinner stock I figured the shears would do better.

It wasn't that bad cutting with these shears.  Next I have to bend the leading edge.  Mr. Thatcher recommends using a 2x4 and bending the skin to within 3/4" of the surface to get the proper radius.  I'll probably get some help with the bend.  Think it may be easier with two people.

I will update with the bending process when we get to it.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Oh, BTW - It was a REALLY nice day Sunday.  So I went flying - Can you blame me??

Nose Ribs on right wing

Using a Dremel 90 degree attachment I was able to drill then rivet the nose ribs to the right wing spar today. With able assistance from my son we finished attaching the ribs.

Drilling the holes

Here is a view of the leading edge (nose) ribs attached to the right spar.  I know, it's on top of my car.  I did that for lighting.  And to show off the construction to my family.  It is very rewarding to start seeing a structure taking form.  Thanks to my oldest son Greg for his help and the use of his variable speed Dremel tool.  

Rib Drilling Update

I was able to get the Dremel 90 degree attachment and drill chuck.  Recommendations from the CX4 User Group gave me this option for drilling rib holes to vertical angles on the wing spar.  I tried to drill using my on speed Dremel tool that turns at about 30,000 RPM.  That is a little fast and hard to control the drill.  Hit the switch on the Dremel tool and it immediately whirls up to that high RPM leaving no room for error when starting to drill.  So, I have to either get a variable speed Dremel tool or borrow one.  Given the price of almost $80 for a variable speed Dremel it makes more sense to borrow one.  More delays...

Here is the 90 degree attachment from Dremel:

Dremel 90 Degree Attachment and drill chuck below.

Just contacted my Son.  He has a variable speed Dremel tool!  YES!  Maybe we can get drilling this weekend.  I will update then.

Thanks for checking n - 

Greg.

Angle Drill - Not what I needed - So Now What???

Well, the angle drill didn't work for me.  That is the 90 degree angle drill that I thought would be the right tool for drilling my rib to spar angle attachments.  However, the drill head is the same size as the pneumatic had drill that I already have.  See the comparison picture here:

As you can see, the drill chuck is the about the same size for both drills.  The 90 degree angle drill on the left with the #40 drill bit doesn't help in drilling the holes I need against the clamped ribs on the spar angles.

In the picture above the drill head or chuck and bit are not perpendicular to the spar web and I can't center the hole on the angle using this tool.

So I guess it's back to the drawing board - or actually the tool shed or store to see what I can get to drill these holes properly.  I was able to drill the outboard rib okay with the hand drill.  Because the end of the spar doesn't constrict the area when getting the drill in position.  So nose rib #1 is drilled and clecoed in place.

In this picture it appears the drilled hole and cleco are near the edge.  But it is not.  

I have posted a message on the CX4 Yahoo Group board to ask other builders how they drilled their holes in the ribs.  The Yahoo group is very helpful.  And I will be going "shopping" for a new/different drill for this task.

So yes - this is another delay in the build process  It's been two weeks or so since any progress has been made.  Mostly because I am over-cautious.  Combine my hesitation with the time required to shop, order, and receive tools and parts and well...there go two more weeks.  

I really hope to get a good drill for this task so I can continue.  

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Looking for an Angle Drill

Well, tried to find an angle drill attachment or drill at TheHomeDepot.  No joy.  They had a 90 degree drill attachment/adapter but is was just as big as my drill head so it would not work.  So I shopped around and found an angle drill (Ingersoll Rand) on Amazon.com for $59.00 including shipping.  I ordered it and should be here by Monday or Tuesday.  So we're on hold for drilling ribs for the spar.  I will spend some time cleaning and straightening out the workshop while I wait for the arrival of my new angle drill.

Stay tuned - and thanks for checking in.

Greg.

** Update 7/18/13 **

I received my 90 degree angle drill today!  Going to start drilling ribs again tomorrow evening.  Stay tuned for updates.

Greg.

Wing Assembly - The first rivet

Drilled my first rivet hole in the right wing forward rib today.  Discovered that my pneumatic palm drill is not going to work for drilling the wing rib holes.  I either have to get a long drill bit or an angle attachment.  Was looking into getting a 90 degree drill but they are just a bit pricey.  So here is a picture of my first drilled hole -

I'm going to check online with Wicks and Aircraft Spruce to see what is available.  And I'll will probably stop by the local Home Depot to see what I can find.  I hope they may have a long drill bit which would allow me drill in this confined area.  Live and learn.

I was really worried about drilling the first hole.  I used the alignment tool that is called out in the plans. Attached my fabricated alignment tool to the leading edge rib with a couple of small bolts with nuts.  Lined up the rib flush and square with the wing spar which is clamped to the work table.  And then held my breath - drilled the first hole - then cleco'd it in place.  It looks okay to me.  Square and aligned with the base.  I attempted to drill a second hole but my drill is just too big to fit in the area betwen the rib and the spar.  This is a learning experience.  And I am proceeding S L O W with everything.

Will update tomorrow after my visit to The Home Depot.  If I get a drill bit or angle attachment for my drill that works.  I will continue fastening leading edge ribs to the spar.

Thanks for checking in -

:)

Back To It

Well, hasn't this been a busy early summer?  Did some work in the shop today.  Had to re-wire the power supply I have in my garage so the lighting was better.  Then I set up my right wing spar and clamped it to the work table.  Next I clamped the nose ribs to the vertical angles.  Just to line everything up and get ready for drilling and rivets in the next day or so.

After initial alignment and fine tuning I will drill the holes, de-burr and then attach with CCP-42 Cherry Max rivets.  Seven ribs on the leading edge (nose) then seven main ribs on the trailing edge.

I have to do some tweaking to the ribs before attaching.  Just to be sure everything is square before proceeding.  Hope to get back in the shop tomorrow for awhile to make progress on this.  It's been too long.   With work, family, and summer fun (opening the pool, landscaping, outside upkeep) it's hard to get a couple of hours in the shop.  I have been doing things in short spurts.  Just haven't made any big progress to report here.  I hope to get this part of the wing done during the weekend.  I will report back one way or the other.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg. 

More De-Burring

Had to delay the initial setup of the wing spar and ribs.   When going through my parts I noticed that the de-burring needed some touch ups.  So I spent a couple of hours refining the de-burring that I initially did.  I used a green 3M Pad to smooth out the edges of all ribs - nose and main.

These are the tools I use for final preparation of the parts.

Hammer for banging angles to 90 degrees

Fluting Plier to straighten parts after whacking them to 90 degrees

Deburring tool for edges and holes

Sheet Metal Seam tool for bending and adjusting flanges

and a green 3M pad for final smoothing

I think progress is being made.  I have a LOT of parts - need to start putting them together now!

Thanks for checking in - 

Greg.

Nose Ribs

Finished de-burring and final adjustments on the nose ribs tonight.  Had a slight delay because I had to get a fluting pliers from Aircraft Spruce.  Had to do a bit more fluting on the ribs to keep them straight.  All the nose ribs and half of the main wing ribs are ready for installation.  Also got my order of CCP-42 rivets from Wicks which are used to attach the ribs to the wing spar.

Need to clear off the table and start setting up the ribs on the spar.  Tomorrow night I'll start that task.

Thanks for checking in -

Greg.

Center Spar Complete

The center spar is ready.  Main spars are ready too.  Spent some time getting the work table cleaned off and ready for wing layup.  Here is the center spar:

This evening I plan to set up the left spar and start clamping ribs to get final alignment and make them ready for drilling and rivets.  Still waiting for my rivets to ship.  Not sure what the delay is.  I will probably update with the rib/spar assembly later today.

Preparation for Wing Construction - 3 hours - Wing Rib Alignment

Back at it today.  Couple of hours doing some important preparation for wing construction.  Including fabrication of wing rib placement/alignment tools.   Per plans I constructed a nose rib and main rib alignment tool.  First the nose or leading edge rib tool was fashioned from some scrap 1/8" aluminium bar that I had.  Then shaped and drilled to match alignment holes in the leading edge ribs.

This is the leading edge rib alignment tool.  It will be used to set the leading edge ribs the proper and uniform distance from the spar attachment angles or intercostal angles.

This is the rib alignment (leading edge) tool on top of a rib showing how the alignment is set. 

This is the main rib alignment tool.  Again fashioned from some scrap 1/8" aluminum bar.

Tomorrow I will start laying up and clamping the ribs to the right main spar in preparation for riveting and continued wing construction.

Thanks for checking in  -


Greg.

No - I Have Not Given Up

Just a lull in the work process.  I spent a lot of time de-burring all the ribs and related parts.  I am waiting on my rivet order and some other things that I ordered.  Also waiting for my 8' 3"x3" steel angle to put on the workbench.  That will be used for shaping and bending the ailerons and other pieces.  I am ready to start laying out the wings.  All the ribs are done.  Including the center section ribs and floor supports.  I need the rivets and a fluting plier that is on order.  So - once all that comes in I will start the wing assembly.  May starting with the center section.

I will post some pics of the completed parts that are waiting assembly.

Thanks for checking in!

Greg.

Wing Parts Prep - 4hrs

This work session included about six total hours.  Four hours were spent shaping and finishing (deburring and surface prep) of the wing ribs.  Both the nose ribs and the main ribs.  I used a home-made deburring tool and some 3M green pads to smooth out the edges on all parts.  I have ordered this deburring tool from Aircraft Spruce and it should speed things up for the next round.  Also did the .040 inboard most ribs.  I also spent about two hours straightening up the workshop and moving my large tools.  I moved the drill press and bench grinder off the assembly table and onto a separate table.  This is in preparation for the wing layup.  I should start that later this week.  That task will include setting up the wing spars and attaching the ribs to the intercostal angles.  First with clamps and then drilled for rivets per the plans.

Rib finishing - deburring and adjusting flanges to 90 degrees

I had to drill out the rib form for the lightening holes.  Here I am using the fly-cutter with my drill press.

Should start the wing assembly later this week.

Thanks for checking in.

Greg.

Bulkhead 12 and Tail Spring Support

Did some fabrication of the bulkhead 12 tail spring support today. About 2hrs on this piece.

It came out pretty good. Here's a pic. 

Going to make the other reinforcements tonight.

Riveting - "Practice makes Perfect" - Does it?

Regarding my last post on hosing the center section spar - I want to learn from the experience.   Allow me to examine what happened prior to my failure.

I did a fairly good job at producing the parts.  The extruded angles were cut accurately and prepared according to standard practice. (deburring etc)  The 4130 steel straps, probably the hardest material I have ever worked with in my limited experience, were fabricated with a level of accuracy and quality that surprised me.  I had doubts in my ability to cut the web material (.040 sheet) with a straight line but the result of my efforts were also a surprise to me.  My confidence was booming after preparing these pieces.  

My drilling of holes for rivets and bolts after clamping the pieces together was at first challenging.  I improved during the process and any misalignment of holes was acceptable so I continued.  Cutting and shaping the intercostal angles was the hardest part for me.  But I did develop the skill and formed those too.  

Now we get to the riveting part of the story.  Yes.  I mucked it up.  But I'm going to learn this skill as it is something that I need to do.  And there are some other bucked rivets in the CX4 that I must contend with.

So I took the center spar out of the scrap heap and completed riveting it.  Even though it is not airworthy quality it will serve well as a training/test piece for developing my riveting skills. 

I did it.  Rivets set.  Some good, some not so good, but my technique improved and the good ones outnumbered the bad ones as I went along.  Here are some things I learned/did regarding bucking rivets:

1 - I watched the EAA video several times.  http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200014906001

2 - Found that when the spar was clamped to the bench it was easier and I had better results riveting the top rivets.  The top row was easier to set properly.  I think this is because there is some "flex" in the material when it is clamped to the bench.  The bottom row rivets were harder to buck and I made more mistakes.  I think when riveting the lower row the spar was too rigid and didn't give much tactile feedback to me through the bucking bar or the rivet gun.

3 - Make absolutely positively sure the rivet gun and bucking bar are 90 degrees in all axes.  This is VERY important for passable results.

4 - Keep a firm grip on the rivet gun but do not choke it.   Too much of a grip and you loose control and feel for what is happening as the rivet is set.

5 - I have a whole new respect for those guys that build with bucked rivets like RV's and such.  

6 - Practice Practice and practice some more. 

Thanks for listening - 

"Illegitimi non carborundum"

Greg.

Here's the score - or - Into the scrap pile...

The score is CX4 1 - Greg 0

I was doing okay starting the riveting of the center spar.  Then - the novice (me) messed up.  The rivet gun got away from me.  And I total destroyed the spar web piece (.040 sheet)

See the total destruction in the pic below:

So it's in the trash it goes (actually I'll save the pieces for scrap - but D***MN I'm mad at myself!  This is probably the first of what may be other screw-ups.  But I am not a happy camper...

I'll try to learn from this and move forward.

Grrrrrr!

Thanks for listening....

Greg.

How do you eat an elephant??

One bite at a time.

Building an airplane is a big project.  Many small tasks that result in a complex machine.

So - I took a few small bites tonight.  Marked out and drilled a bunch of rivet holes in my center spar.

About 40 holes drilled - twenty more marked out to drill and de-burr.  Some progress is better than not doing anything.

Going to finish drilling tomorrow morning and rivet complete riveting this piece.

Stay tuned and thanks for checking in!

Greg.

Center Spar - More Drilling and Rivet Preparation - 2 Hrs

Spent some more time drilling, de-burring, and generally preparing to continue riveting on the center spar.  It was warm today so with the door is open in the garage it was quite comfortable.  Should be warm all week so I hope to get more done on the center spar and start the wing spars.

I am being critical regarding my quality of drilling and spacing for the rivets.  Some mis-alignments.  Expected I suppose while learning new skills.  Before starting my CX4 project I had zero experience working with metal or drill presses, grinders, clamping etc.  This truly is a learning experience.  Guess it fits with the FAA definition of amateur built aircraft as stated in their documents.  As stated:

"Title 14, Code of Federal Regulations (14 CFR), part 21, section 21.191(g), defines an amateur-built aircraft as an aircraft “the major portion of which has been fabricated and assembled by person(s) who undertook the construction project solely for their own education or recreation.”

Emphasis on those last two words - "education or recreation"  It is educational - I am learning all kinds of new skills.  As for recreation?  Yes - I find it to be very relaxing and rewarding.  Until I screw something up.  Mis-drill a hole off center, buck a bad rivet, etc.  

In the following picture you can see my drilled holes include a couple of off center holes:

But I think those slightly mis-aligned holes are okay.  After all - I'm "building and airplane not a swiss watch" as I have seen it said on some other amateur built sites and message boards.

Here I am in a self taken pic de-burring the drilled holes.  I read somewhere that you should have pictures of yourself performing the work during the build process to prove you did work on your project during the DAR or FAA inspection of your build log. (of which I intend this to be) 

So here you go - for the record I am working on my center spar

De-burring the drilled holes that I will rivet later.

And just to keep it interesting - here I am lining up the center spar for drilling - probably this is the one that I mis-aligned while I was taking the self pic.  :)

As I move forward with the center spar I am considering using this as a "training piece" and trashing it at the end.  I have spent a bunch of hours on this part - and have learned but not quite perfected the skills and techniques yet.  So - If I mess up some more rivets or something I may just trash this work and start from scratch.  The raw materials I would have to trash includes two 35" pieces of aluminum angle, one 35" x 5 1/2" piece of .040 6061-T6 sheet, and two 35" pieces of 2024-T4 bar.  I have enough stock to redo.  And the angles are all reusable.  I'll make the call on wether to trash this piece or not later.  I would appreciate any feedback.  Take a look at my work as it progresses and let me know if this thing is a keeper or should I just use it as a learning experience...

And - Thanks for checking in.

Greg.

Riveting the Center Spar

Started riveting the center spar this Saturday.  After a bunch of practice (probably not enough) we started to commit to the process.  My son Greg helped and tried a few rivets too.  We did okay.  Maybe one or two to drill-out and redo.  But we are beginners after all.

Here is Greg trying out his new skills:

And here is some of the results:

May need to remove and replace that bottom right rivet in the above picture.  

Quite a few more rivets to buck.  Will continue later today and post results.

Thanks for checking in!

Greg..

So - Where is Spring???

First full day of spring.  Weather still in the 40's during the day and high 20's at night.  Not good for working in the shop.  I is COLD in there.  Can't get much work done so things have slowed down a bit.  Hands and fingers get cold after a few minutes.  Not to mention the feet on the cold concrete.  Okay - Maybe I'm a wuss.  ;)  But I find it difficult to work in such an environment.  I have been practicing my riveting skills though.  I am ready to rivet my spar pieces.  A bit apprehensive on undertaking the riveting.   Don't want to mess up my work with bad rivets.  I asked a good friend about it (an experienced aircraft mechanic) and he said to practice, practice, practice.  Makes sense.  So I have been banging some rivets into scrap pieces of aluminum.  I think my touch is getting better.  Maybe a few more dozen practice rounds before committing to the real deal on the spars I've worked so hard on.

I will probably be in the shop later today or this evening to get some more practice.  I'll snap some pics and add to the blog here for documentation.

Till then -

As always -- thanks for checking in.

Greg.

BTW - you will see ads on my blog.  These are put there by Google (owners of blogger.com)  If you find them interesting click on them.  If not - click on them anyway.  The more clicks I get - the more $$ I get to offset the price of rivets and other trinkets that I need for my CX4!  Really - just kidding - I would appreciate it though.

Be safe -

** Update **  Here are two pics of my rivet practice...

I need to get a rivet gauge to see if I'm getting them set correctly

- Two of my practice rivets -